Welcome to... Trail Riding Tips
Tips and handy information resources for the woman trail rider.
Check this page frequently for updates on information about your horse, you and trail riding.
May 2009: Spring Is Here
Spring is finally here. Is there anything better than the sight of new grass and the smell of budding flowers? All of us are chomping at the bit to hit the trails. But, before you go, there are some things you can do to ensure a great riding experience.
Now’s the time to clean and check your tack and make sure everything is in good working order. Be sure to check for loose screws and worn or frayed leather. Repairs are much easier to make at home than on the trail. Pay special attention to the condition of your girth and latigo straps. The last thing you want is for your saddle to come off during a ride. Check your saddle pad to make sure it is not embedded with dirt, sweat and grime. A dirt encrusted pad will wear faster and can cause friction sores on your horse. Some pads can be washed in the washing machine; others will require elbow greese to clean. Fleece pad can usually go in the washer if you use mild detergent, cold water and double rinse cycle. Filled pads need to be hand scrubbed with cold water and a brush. I don’t use detergent as it can be difficult to completely rinse out of the foam. When you’re done, hang your pad to dry. You can wash and polish your bits with baking soda and a toothbrush. Be sure to rinse well. Also, get your saddle bags ready by restocking on some of the important staples that you will need for every ride; vet wrap, tack repair kit, first aid items for you and your horse, bug spray and sunscreen.
Money’s tight with everyone, but horses, like people, need a yearly physical. Have your vet check your horse’s teeth, listen to its heart and lungs, check for lameness, update vaccines and get a Coggins done. You’ll be asking a lot from your faithful horse in the months to come and you want to make sure he’s up to the challenge. Horses, like the rest of us, tend to get out of shape during the winter. You’ll need to start slowly and work up gradually to bring him back into prime condition. Your horse may not just be physically out of shape, but may be mentally out of shape as well. Some horses that haven’t been ridden for several months can be a challenge when you ask them to go back to work. At my age I’m a great believer in the 30 day spring training tune-up. Find a reputable trainer who will work with your horse and get it ready to hit the trails, both physically and mentally. It’s worth the money to be able to just get on and enjoy the ride. The ground has gotten harder as I’ve gotten older (I think it must be global warming) and anything I can do to minimize the risk of hitting it is a good thing in my book.
April 2009: Spring Trailer Tips
Spring is here and it's time to hit the trails, but before you go, you need to do some work to ensure a great season. A good place to start is your trailer. The sooner the better, trailer repair shops get swamped as the season progresses and it’s not unusual to have to wait several weeks for repairs, wasting precious riding time. Your trailer’s been sitting all winter and you need to make sure everything's in working order before heading out. There’s nothing worse than being stranded alongside the road with a trailer full of horses.
- Check the tires. How's the tread? Are the tires wearing evenly? Do they have the correct pressure? If the tires are wearing unevenly, you need to have your axles aligned. Not every tire shop aligns trailer axles, so you might have to make a few calls.
- Check your spare tire. It won’t do you any good if it’s not properly inflated. Make sure you have the proper tools to change a tire. Several companies make drive on ramps such as Trailer Aid® that allow you to change your tire without unloading your horses or using a jack. You’ll also need a lug wrench that’s the correct size to fit the bolts of your tires. Lug nuts vary in size and the one that fits your truck may not work for your trailer. You can buy a 4 way wrench anywhere car supplies are sold. It has the 4 most common lug sizes, but check when you get home to make sure yours is among them. You’ll also need several reflective emergency triangles or flares and a flashlight (these are the bare bone basics). Keep them in a kit in your trailer. It’s easy to rely on cell phones, but there are many places I go that don’t have cell service, so it’s best to be prepared. If you travel often or over long distance, I’d recommend enrolling with USRider: It’s a roadside assistance plan dedicated to people traveling with horses. I’ve had their service for several years and found them invaluable.
- Lube or repack your hubs every spring! Even seasoned travelers sometime forget this step. Terrible things will happen if your hub seizes. I speak from experience when I say no one wants to see their trailer tire going down the highway by itself. Some newer trailers have nozzles that allow you to lube them with a grease gun. Older trailers require you to take off the tire, open the hub and repack it by hand. It’s a hard, messy job that I leave to the professionals.
- Take your trailer to a shop and have the brakes checked. You don’t want to find out the hard way that they aren’t working, especially since most places will check them for free.
- Make sure you have the correct size ball for your hitch and that the coupler fits snugly on ball. Couplers wear out over time, making the opening larger. If it becomes too loose, your trailer can come unhitched from your vehicle.
- Hook up your trailer and check all the lights (turn signals, brake and running lights). If one light isn’t working, try replacing the bulb. If that doesn’t solve the problem or there’s more than one light out, you’ll probably have to take it a trailer repair shop and have them check the wiring. After years of experience I’ve found electrical shorts are hard to find and frustrating to try and fix, so I leave it to the professionals. If you bought a new towing vehicle or trailer, the problem might be in the connection between the two. Here’s a useful link to wiring diagrams. It’s only been in the last few years that truck and trailer wiring has become standardized, so if your vehicle or trailer is older, you may have to completely rewire the harness to make them work.
- Check your emergency brake connection. Make sure the line isn’t frayed or broken. The brakes activate by pulling the pin when the trailer comes loose from the truck. The brakes won’t activate if the lines breaks without pulling the pin.
- Check your safety chains to make sure they aren’t worn or rusted. Chains will wear through from being dragged on the pavement. You are required to have and use safety chains on all bumper pull and gooseneck trailers per DOT regulations.
Now it’s time to check the inside of your trailer to make sure it’s “horse safe”.
- Pull out your mats and check the floor. If the flooring is rotten your horse can fall though, a nightmare no one should have to face. Check for rotted floor boards and rusted metal. Wooden trailer floors need to be replaced every few years, depending on use. A floor might be expensive, but the vet bills and heartache from an injured horse will cost more. If the floor is in good condition, it’s time to clean and seal. After sweeping, wash the floor to remove any remaining manure and urine. Let the floor dry completely and apply a good wood preservative. I usually make my own by mixing equal parts linseed oil and turpentine. The linseed protects and the turpentine thins the oil allowing it to penetrate deeper. Just roll the mixture on with a paint roller. Sealing a wood floor greatly improves its life. I use mats so my horses are never standing directly on the wood. If you’re not using mats check with your veterinarian for a wood preservative that’s safe for horse’s hooves. Metal floors need to be checked annually. Horse urine is a powerful corrosive and will damage even the toughest floors. Check the floor for wear and damage and while the mats out wash the floor to get rid of any manure and urine. In a perfect world we’d remove the mats and wash the floor after every use. You can stop laughing now.
- Check the inside of your trailer for any missing bolts or screws. I’m always amazed at how many have disappeared. Also check for any sharp pieces of metal. A sharp edge can be very expensive when it comes to vet bills.
- Inspect for rusted areas. One place most people overlook is the area around the roof vents. If you have rust around the vent you need to seal the top of the roof around the vent with a silicone sealant. Surface rust can be sanded and repainted; deeper areas need to be replaced.
- Replace or repair any torn pads. Check latches to make sure they are working properly. Make sure that all vents and windows are working. Dirt accumulates in the tracks of sliding windows, making them hard to open and close. Try a thin metal scraper and vacuum to clear the debris. Replace any cracked windows. The vibration of the road can cause them to shatter and fall into the horse compartment.
- If you use trailer ties make sure they are in good working order.
Finally do a walk around inspection of the outside of your trailer.
- Check the lens covers on your lights, replace missing or damaged ones.
- Look for rust spots that need repair. It’s better to stop the damage than to wait for the rust to eat completely though the metal.
- Inspect the entire trailer for any sharp edges.
- Check tie loops to make sure they aren’t broken or damaged.
- Open and close all latches, locks and check the hinges, lubricate with WD40 as needed.
- Make sure the latch that holds the rear door is tight and secure. Check all bolts and screws replace and tighten any that are missing or loose. You don’t want the door to fly open while you’re driving down the road. You might consider securing the door with a spring clip to keep the latch from vibrating open.
This may sound like a daunting task, but most of the items don’t take very long and can prevent big problems when you’re on the road. If you think it’s hard to do at home imagine how hard it will be to fix while you’re parked alongside the road with a trailer full of horses.
As always I value your suggestions, please email me with any ideas that you’d be willing to share. Sharing ideas will help make trail riding better for everyone. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Nancy
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me.
January 2009: Your Safety
Your safety means taking responsibility for yourself. Ways to ensure your personal safety include carrying a first aid kit and map of the area in which you plan to ride. Do not rely on others for these items. In addition, always carry enough food and water to accommodate a ride that goes longer than you anticipate.
Be sure to carry rain gear and wear moisture wicking clothing in case the weather becomes cold and wet. Don’t ever ride alone! If you must ride alone, be sure to notify someone where you are going and when you plan to be back.
If you are going on an organized ride, discuss the type of ride that the Trail Boss is planning. Are you and your horse in proper condition for the type of ride planned? Is the terrain flat, rolling, hilly, or rocky? Does the condition of the trail require that your horse is shod?
Be sure to let fellow riders or the Trail Boss know if you have any food or medicine allergies or special conditions in case of an accident.